What Does “Factory Made Violin” Mean?

The differences between fine stringed instruments (and cellos and violas) and an assembly line made violin are significant. Craftsmanship matters in the end.

In the simplest of terms, there are two kinds of violins in the world. One is made – painstakingly – by a professional luthier (violin maker), and the other is factory made. Importantly, both types of violins are capable of being played and making music and the player has the greatest effect on the quality of that music. But for the most part, a student or professional who wants to be accomplished in their musicianship will want a hand-made violin from a skilled luthier.

To truly appreciate the distinction - fine violins versus factory-made violins - it helps to know what is required in violin making (and for that matter, in the making of all lesser-quality and fine stringed instruments). Also, know that the term “factory made” is not to imply that machines and robots make the lesser-quality instruments. The latter refers to the assembly-line nature of factories, which are found in Europe, the United States, and increasingly in China. In these factories human beings with certain degrees of skill do most of the processes of manufacturing. As each component of the instrument is made, it is then passed on to the next phase and person in the process.

The luthier is more likely the sole maker of the handmade violin or oversees a very small staff of one to three people. He or she takes significant pride and ownership of the instrument from start to finish. That includes the following:

Wood selection: Maple is used for the ribs, back and scroll, while spruce wood is used for the front (aka, the “belly”). Ebony, not a darkly dyed wood (as is used by lesser makers), is what makes up the fingerboard. Expert violin makers begin by selected the best available woods that have no flaws and the right degree of density.

Wood curing: This is a multi year (5 to 20 years) process of naturally drying. Cheaper violins are made with “fresher” woods or kiln dried wood.

Cutting, bending, gouging and gluing: The skills of the luthier are absolutely essential in the multiple stages involving these actions. This is what gives the violin its shape, creates the f-holes, installs the bass bar, the sound post, the scroll and what holds it together. The types of glues used and how they are applied expertly, are all a part of it. While it occurs in stages, in a factory setting these steps are undertaken under time pressures and by workers who do not typically have formal training and apprenticeships under their belt. In some phases of the process the factory workers use machine saws where a luthier would instead cut by hand.

Making and applying the fingerboard, pegs, and varnishing: After making the body and the neck, these components of the violin require absolute exacting skill to distinguish the “good enough” from the “fine” instruments. Made of ebony, a very dense hardwood, the fingerboard, along with the pegs, will have a great effect on how the instrument is played. Varnishes on good instruments are not an afternoon affair. Multiple coatings of varnish are required to achieve the depth of color that makes for a beautiful instrument.

A beginner of modest means will likely spend his or her first years on a factory-made violin. But when the student shows promise and an inclination to excellence, they need a hand-crafted violin that will enable the sound that only a luthier’s involvement can produce.

Purchasing a Fine Stringed Instrument at Auction

Violins, cellos, violas, basses and bows are sold at auction all the time. It works for buyers and sellers, but it’s possible to get it wrong.

Buy a fine violin, cello, viola or bass at auction? It may not be for the faint hearted, but auction sales of fine stringed instruments offer certain advantages.

One is that it is possible to purchase an instrument at a lower-than-dealer price. This comes with a great deal of caution, however, as detailed below. Second, an auction provides buyers an opportunity to consider many instruments at one time and in one place. A well-stocked local violin shop, however, may offer the same.

There are disadvantages as well. One is in the speed at which decisions must be made, although there is time allotted to review instruments in advance. Another is that the “hammer price” is never the full amount the buyer pays. Further, professionals are almost always involved in auctions. They might have inside or instinctive knowledge as to why a particular instrument is offered at an opening bid far below similar instruments – and therefore a poor buy.

Buyer beware (but optimistic) about stringed instrument auctions

Auction houses are by and large honest brokers in the sale of musical instruments and other fine items. Most have existed for decades based on a solid reputation and satisfied customers. What might flummox the newcomer to auctions are the specific features and requirements of auction purchasing that hold true regardless of auction firm. In short, those are:

Quick decisions. Whether online or in person, auctions do require would-be buyers to determine what their limits are on bidding for a lot (all items are called “lots,” and a lot may include more than one item). This is less a problem for the bidder who pre-determines those limits, but sometimes a different instrument can look attractive in the moment where the buyer might act impulsively. Rule of thumb is to take advantage of the pre-auction viewing of lots, which are typically the day before the live auction.

Will it need repair? Very often the answer is yes, so the buyer should try to learn in advance how much repair and restoration is necessary, and at what cost.

“Buyer’s premium.” This is the approximately 20% markup (plus tax) over the “hammer price” on a purchase that essentially covers the auction house service fees. Due to complexities of US tax codes, it is advantageous to the seller to separate the hammer price and buyer’s premium. This also explains the differential between appraised value and lowest starting bids, as the starting bid does not include the buyer’s premium that will be charged after the sale.

You won it, you can’t back out. All sales are final, as no “do overs” are allowed in auctions.

You usually have to be financially qualified. The auction houses require some form of identification, such as a government-issued license or passport, and usually financial information to determine your purchasing ability before you are allowed to make your first bid.

Every auction house has its own additional requirements and methods that the buyer should study. In a first-go at this, the buyer should consider working with a knowledgeable dealer or luthier to navigate the process, in particular to study the instruments to identify if extensive and expensive repairs will be necessary.